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What
am I tasting?
Voluptuous and
wild, a rococo construction of honeyed, ripe Chenin. Imagine an
Elizabethan maid strapped into her brocaded gown, running wild through
a summer field of clover and thistle swarming with honeybees. The
wine is elegant yet plump, dripping with honey yet not sweet. Bonnezeaux
are often long-lived Chenin and this exceptional vintage should
age gracefully, if you can keep hands off of it."
Of
all the descriptions of wine I have ever read, this is my favorite.
I couldn't believe it when I saw it in a magazine. I immediately
tracked down a source for the wine and bought it. It was ridiculously
expensive, especially for a half bottle, but I was determined to
drink it. There was no doubt in my mind that once I pulled the cork,
Fabio would appear to drink it with me. It was so sweet (although
described as "not sweet"), it made my teeth hurt I couldn't
finish the glass. I went back to the magazine to find out who wrote
the description, and it was a woman whose first name was Tara. Of
course, anyone named after a southern plantation in Gone With The
Wine is going to write like that. Here's the second runner-up:
If you would
like to read more of Robyn's suggestions on understading wine review
and her wine reccommendations pick up the May June 2001 issue of
Pinehurst Magazine.
Previous
Wine Reviews & Recommendations
California
Warms Up To Syrah
Since prohibition, California winemakers have concentrated on producing
wines that rival those from the great regions of Burgundy and Bordeaux
in France. Trial and error with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay
and Pinot Noir have presented decades of challenges in grape growing
and winemaking on our fine West Coast. After great successes with
those varietals, innovative California vinters, nicknamed "Rhone
Rangers," step to the plate to address Syrah, the great grape
varietal, native first to the powerful Rhone region of France and
second to Australia's Barossa Valley where it is knows for "Shiraz."
Zaca Mesa
Syrah, Santa Barbara, 1997 - $22
"This medium bodied wine (with 12% Viognier in the blend) offers
a candied blackberry nose with scents of pepper and asphalt. Pure
and ripe, with low acidity and sexy, voluptuously textured fruit,
this tasty, fleshy, succulent Syrah will have many admirers."
Rated 90 Points, Robert Parker, The Wine Advocate.
Echelon Syrah,
California 1997 -- $16
"Juicy black cherry and chocolate notes linger through the
tangy finish of this medium-bodied wine. Drink now through 2004."
Rated 87 Points, The Wine Spectator.
McDowell Syrah, Mendocino, 1998 -- $15
"Here's a supple Syrah at a reasonable rice, it's smooth, round
tannins framing black cherry and herb flavors. A hint of stemminess
shows itself on the finish, adding complexity, and the oak nuances
are pretty. Drink now through 2005. Best Buy!" Rated 88 Points,
The Wine Spectator.
If you would like to read more of Robyn James' California Syrah
wine review and recommendations pick up the September/October issue
of Pinehurst Magazine. Look for Robyn's wine reviews in every issue.
A Sparkling Millennium
Vicious
rumors are swirling through the wine industry of a Champagne shortage
for the Millennium. Are they true, or just concocted to create a
panic and cause lovers of bubbly to stockpile? In many cases they
are true. The really well known names such as Dom Perignon and Perrier
Jouet have disappeared from the shelves for now. But there are still
many high quality, lesser-known names that can be found with a little
effort.
Le Baron
Blancs de Blancas Brut, France - $9
Cheaper than Korbel
and light years ahead in finesse, Le Baron is very dry; delicate
with pretty tiny bubbles and a nice yeasty flavor of toasted bread.
No large party calling for Sparkling Wine should be without Le Baron.
If you are not a sparkling wine aficionado, this is the place to
start.
Charles Heidseck Diamant
Bleu Vintage Champagne, France - $75
"Wow. An
exuberant, generous, concentrated brut with a wide band of caramel, pear
and spice flavors; great depth and a lingering finish. Its complexity
and character are wonderful." The Wine Spectator Rated 93 Points.
If you would like to read more of Robyn
James’ Champagne review and recommendations pick up the November/
December issue of Pinehurst Magazine. Robyn is the proprietor of The
Wine Cellar and Tasting Room in Southern Pines, North Carolina. Look
for her reviews in every issue of Pinehurst Magazine.
Visit
Robyn's Web Site!
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